El Fin Del Mundo--Ushuaia, Argentina

We executed our second border crossing via bus (which included a ferry ride across the Strait of Magellan) and successfully landed at "El Fin Del Mundo," Ushuaia, Argentina. This is our first time in Tierra del Fuego so we were all pretty excited. Why did we come here, the main departure point for cruises to Antarctica, if we weren't taking a cruise to Antarctica? Because...why not?!?! Tierra del Fuego is known for its natural beauty and fantastic hiking, and we thought it would be neat to spend New Year's as far south as you can go in South America (ok, you can go the wilderness a little further south in Chile, or visit Puerto Williams, Chile, but Ushuaia is regarded as the southernmost city in the world!). 

Ushuaia (oosh-why-ah)! Love the spring flowers here!

After a 10-hour bus ride we arrived around 7pm and settled into our AirBnB, giddy with joy at our view of Beagle Channel! Looking for an easy evening, we stumbled upon Cerveceria Grut '84 and had a great night of games, beers, and delicious food! The next day we settled into life--school, groceries, laundry--and were treated to a stunning rainbow over the channel. It really lifted my spirits!

My super perky crew handled the border crossing and long ride in a semi-coma (almost lie-flat) seat well! A stunning view of the Beagle Channel and a cerveceria at the end of the ride certainly helps...

My AirBnB selection was highly influenced by this balcony and the views of the Beagle Channel from it! We got to see several stunning rainbows during out stay.

We skipped school for a day, hopped on the local shuttle, and headed to Tierra del Fuego National Park. We started our day of hiking at the old Post Office, hiked for three hours along the Beagle Channel and through the woods, and had lunch at the visitor center. We hiked a little past the center for a great view our bus driver had told us about before heading down trails #1 & #3 to Bahía Lapataia. We had a spell of rainy/windy weather while we were on trail #1 and realizing we were approaching six hours of hiking, we opted to catch the shuttle back to town. It was so great that Frank and I went back again the next day while the kids did school so that we could do trails #4, #5, and #6, as well as do #1 again. That second day was very leisurely and we arrived back at the visitor center as the weather deteriorated. We visited the interpretive display inside the center before settling in by the fire with some beers to wait for the shuttle. Talk about a nice couple of days walking in the woods! 

Hiking at the End of the World is magical!

A few tips on TDFNP:

• You can get there via rental car, local shuttle, taxi, or a tour. We opted for the shuttle as there were multiple pickup times and locations which gave us flexibility with our return. There is no cell coverage in the park so if you taxi, you have to arrange a pickup location and time. The trails are really well marked and we don't like big groups, so we did not do a tour. Guides are probably awesome, but the visitor center gives lots of information about the flora, fauna, and history and we don't feel like we missed out.
• You can buy a two-day ticket that gives you 50% off for your second day. I'd highly recommend this if you have time in your schedule as there are plenty of trails to keep you busy.
• There is a restaurant in the visitor center if you don't want to pack in your own food. We didn't see any picnic tables/shelters on the trails we were on or at the visitor center, and you can't bring your own food into the restaurant tables. If it's raining, your best bet is to find a semi-protected area in the woods (or hang out in the vestibule of the visitor center, which is what we did briefly to enjoy our sandwiches). 
• If cruise ships are in town the more popular spots near the parking areas can be crazy or the visitor center can be packed. This happened on our second day--all of the restaurant tables were reserved for a Disney cruise and they came all at once! Any non-cruise diner was relegated to some cramped tables in a loft that had no view. We lucked out and eventually found some seats on the lower level in a little lounge room, but the crush of people was shocking after our peaceful hike!
• You can camp in the park! We didn't have a car or gear, but I would totally go for that option if I did. It's majestic.

Parents' Day Out! I think all parents should escape like this every once in a while. We had a peaceful day, a nice lunch on the water, and adult beverages by the fire. Ahhhh....

Our NYE dinner plans didn't exactly pan out, but we found empanadas, chips, and wine so it worked out! Local NYE action consisted of some air-raid sirens from the naval base and some ships in the harbor blowing their horns. We toasted, kissed, and were off to bed! New Year's Day we were back at school, but Frank and I walked the waterfront during a strangely wind-free period of the morning. The boys and I were going to head to Martial Glacier in the afternoon, but apparently most of the taxis are off for the holiday so we scrapped that plan and turned it into an afternoon/evening of relaxing and games. All good!

We also decided to splurge on another penguin excursion and it was totally worth it! This time we boarded a bus in a dreary, windy downpour and headed out to the Haberton Estate (the first Argentinian estancia in Patagonia back in the late 1800's). The rain had mostly stopped as we boarded a covered 400hp RHIB boat and zipped (ok, pounded into the waves) across the Beagle Channel for 20 minutes to arrive at the rookery on Martillo Island. This experience was somehow smaller and more intimate than the one we did on Magdalena Island in Punta Arenas (though we would still recommend that one, too). We again saw tons of Magellanic penguins (and their downy chicks!), but also saw a colony of Gentoo penguins! And the real treat? A pair of King penguins that found their way to the island six years ago and have been trying to establish themselves there (one egg last year, but the chick didn't make it). So amazing and despite the daily visitors these penguins just don't seem to care that you're there and walk all around you. We saw them walking, swimming, preening, mating, snoozing...loved it all!

A Beagle Channel boat ride AND PENGUINS! Can't believe we got to see a pair of King Penguins and we loved the Gentoo penguins and their unique, rocky nests!

There really is plenty to do in Ushuaia. Even with a week here we aren't hitting all the attractions because we have school and like to take things slow, but we did hit the Prison/Maritime Museum (Ushuaia was originally a penal colony) and hiked up to Martial Glacier.

We had snow and crazy winds (maybe 70kmph?) to get there, but it was worth it! The weather cleared as we approached the glacier and we had a fantastic view of Ushuaia below us! 

Being in Patagonia for over a month now has given us many opportunities to learn about the natives of the area and how explorers and missionaries "helped" the native Tehuelchans to extinction. Just as Peru reminded us of our nation's history with our natives, so has Patagonia. While we can't change it, we can recognize the atrocities, learn from them, and work to preserve the memory, beliefs, and even skills of the native cultures. For my part, I will continue to tell the story of "Lehe Paine" and the Tehuelche language that inspired it.

~Jo, Nomadic Momma