Our first trip to the Raggeds!

We enjoyed fantastic breezes for a 2-day sail from Thompson Bay on Long Island through the Jumentos to Hog Cay in the Raggeds! Gah, it was exhilarating! And also a little surprising to be “out there,” yet be at a cay with a substantial cruisers beach structure and super fast cell service. But, we had arrived in the Raggeds! 

Enjoying a peaceful corner of Hog Cay.

But before I get too excited, the trip here had some excitement, too. As we were motoring from George Town to Thompson Bay (dead into the wind), we felt a shudder. All three of us tensed up and Frank put the boat in neutral. He checked the bilge for water and I grabbed a mask that was hanging in the cockpit and dunked my head in from the sugar scoop to see if there was anything obvious wrapped around the prop/shaft. With the bilge dry and nothing visible around the prop, I dunked my head again to take a better look. All looked well. The prop blades were folded, but I couldn’t see anything amiss. We started forward again, looking, listening, and feeling, but all was fine. A mystery!

Sweet sailing; an unexpected salty hair wash; navigating the skinny, shallow Comer Channel; surrounded by beautiful, clear water.

The wind was nearly perfect on our trip south and we made great speed with just the genoa out. We had to motor into the wind for one 4nm leg (too narrow to comfortably tack up), but otherwise had some of the best sailing we have had all winter. I even got pretty darn comfortable sailing with the wind forward of the beam, which is a huge step for me. The boat handled beautifully!

The happy sailors! I may not like heeling more than 15 degrees, but it really was some sweet sailing.

Hog Cay provided great protection for a NE blow and we were able to hike, spear, meet other cruisers, and visit Duncan Town. 

Surprised by the cruiser's set-up on Hog Cay! Trent started out our Raggeds hunting with a nice lobster haul.

My morning beach walk, complete with animal tracks and goats!

It was all pretty fabulous, but I have to say that Duncan Town was the highlight for me. The island was devastated by Hurricane Matthew in 2017 and has slowly been making a comeback since. It is regularly serviced by a mailboat and has an airstrip. Construction on a new clinic is underway and the new school is nearly complete. And while the government has decided to abandon their offices at this far reach of the country, the people are happy and resourceful and pressing on. Getting to town via the dinghy channel cut into the mangroves was also very cool. And the town motto just spoke to me..."Forward, Together, Upward, Onward." 

We were welcomed at the dock by a man who happily tied us up and after asking about the state of things, we headed to town. We walked by the salt pond and the goat pen (which actually doesn’t have a fence) before stopping by Maxine’s to grab some provisions and to check on things in town. We didn’t really need anything, but got some cold drinks, eggs, and a Kalik bottle of tomatoes anyway. 

We had brought a microscope for the school and some games and coloring supplies for the kids, and Maxine was the one to accept it all. She told us that six kids were currently on island, but that it would go up to 12 when the school opened. The roof trusses were due on “the next boat” so that’s exciting! We thanked her and headed on our way. 

Annnnddd…we made it next door…to the bar! They had pints of Bush Crack for $3 and we hadn’t tried it yet, so we had to stop! The a/c was kicking inside, but we joined the guys on the front porch and watched the chickens wander by and the workers build the rebar supports for the clinic. We left smiling…maybe from the Bush Crack but most likely from the great vibe and sweet people we met along the road. We will return!

(Top to bottom, left to right) Trent navigating the dinghy channel into town; the dinghy channel; "Forward, Together, Upward, Onward"; the salt pond; the goat pen; trying some Bush Crack beer; locally bottled tomatoes; the harbor; the public dock.

We tried to get just a little further south and headed to an anchorage on Ragged Island, but it was super rolly so we had lunch and moved back to Hog Cay for some hunting and a peaceful night. I got a snapper and we had it with peas & rice and slaw—so good!

Can't believe how close we were to Cuba! We rounded out the day with some hunting and a visit from the local sharks.

From here we head north…back to civilization, towards the Abacos, and towards our reunion with Katreina! We plan to spend the next few days slowly working our way up the Ragged and Jumentos, enjoying the beauty and solitude of these remote islands.

~Jo, 1st Mate